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Skirting boards are essential to any wall, hence it is important to paint them properly. In this article, we will guide you through the process of painting skirting boards and provide you with some pro tips.
Home > General Guides > How to Paint Skirting Boards
Skirting boards are essential to any wall, serving both functional and aesthetic purposes. They don’t only protect the wall from damage but also enhance the overall look of the wall and the room. That is why it is important to paint them properly. Nicely painted skirting boards will enhance the visual appeal of the room and extend the longevity of the skirting boards. If all faces have at minimum been pre-primed (ie even the back and bottom which cannot be seen when installed) you’re in a good position for many years of low-maintenance, durable skirting.
In this article, we will guide you through the process of painting skirting boards and provide you with some pro tips.
Prepare the surroundings and timber moulding by placing a dust sheet on the floor to protect it from any spills or splatters. Next, use sandpaper to lightly sand the skirting boards to remove any bumps or rough patches. Once done, wipe down the skirting boards to remove any dust or debris.
Use masking tape to mask off any areas that you don’t want to paint, such as the walls or the floor. Make sure that the tape is firmly pressed down to prevent any paint from seeping through.
There might be gaps between the walls and the skirting and at the skirting joins. Fill them using a gap sealer.
Use a wood filler to fill the nail holes or cracks using a putty knife. Let it dry and sand again to achieve a smooth surface for priming. Wipe down the skirting to remove dust and debris.
Apply a primer to the skirting boards using a paintbrush. This will help the paint adhere to the surface and provide a more even finish. Allow the primer to dry completely before moving on to the next step.
Using a paintbrush, apply the paint to the skirting boards. Start by painting the edges and corners first, before moving on to the flat surfaces. Apply the paint in thin, even layers, and avoid overloading the brush with paint. Allow the first coat to dry completely before applying a second coat.
Once the first coat is completely dry apply the second coat and allow it to dry. Once it is completely dry remove the masking tape carefully.
After you have installed and filled all fixings or surface features of your skirting. A fine sand is recommended prior to applying top coats. 400 grit should be used to avoid sanding through the sealer on the mouldings, which can lead to differential grain swell.
Paint suppliers will only give warranty on their coating adhesion if the surface that the paint is being applied too has been prepared properly, and this includes the sanding process. Not only will your paint ‘stick’ better, you will achieve a smoother, more pleasing result.
For Raw timber skirtings Dulux professional total preparation sealer undercoat (oil-based) is highly recommended and can be applied via conventional spray method or brush and roller.
Should acrylic/water-based paint be specified we recommend Dulux acrylic total preparation sealer undercoat as an option.
Most commonly used on skirting boards is a water/acrylic based or oil/enamel-based paint. We recommend Dulux Super Enamel (Semi-Gloss) if you go for oil/enamel-based paint.
Dulux Aqua Enamel (Semi-gloss or gloss) is recommended if you wish to use water/acrylic-based paint.
Do not use paints that are designed for absorbent surfaces such as plasterboard sealers.
Paint coats should always be applied in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
Typically a gloss (very shiny) or semi-gloss (mildly shiny) paint is used on skirting boards.
A high gloss finish highlights any imperfections on the surface and therefore there needs a lot more preparation to fill and sand any fixing holes, timber features, including grain lift, splits, small cracks, surface variations that are inherent with natural timber.
Our recommendation for timber skirting boards, whether it is to stain, clear lacquer or paint, is to choose a semi-gloss, low sheen or matt finish top coat of paint on the skirting boards.
If you are set on having a high gloss finish, we would recommend using MDF (Medium density fibreboard) material instead of natural timber for your skirting boards. MDF is an engineered material like particleboard (has no natural timber features), so requires minimal surface preparation to achieve a smooth surface prior to applying further coats.
Some of you might be thinking ‘what is emulsion?’ The definition of emulsion is the coming together of two liquids that would not easily mix well ie. water and oil, which is pretty much what emulsion paint is. The paint is water-based with vinyl or acrylic resin added for durability.
Emulsion paints are thick and easy to apply, humidity resistant (great for use in kitchen and bathrooms), dry quickly, are less toxic, don’t dry, crack or fade in the sunlight and are less likely to attract the growth of mildew. Getting all these benefits of course equate to a higher cost and bigger hit to your back pocket and when we’re talking about mouldings, which are usually finished in a gloss or semi gloss, emulsion paint usually provides a matte finish.
Now, can you use this paint on mouldings? The answer is Yes, but you must prepare the skirting board as set out in this article for a positive result.
Sanding is a VERY important step that cannot be missed. If your skirting boards are MDF, it is important not to scratch through the pre primer as it is waterproof and the result will be grain swell in the scratches, which can look unsightly. It is best to use fine sandpaper (say 400 grit).
If you are choosing not to sand (which is not the way we recommend to prepare skirting boards) we do suggest applying Dulux Precision Max adhesion as the first coat down.
After you have installed, filled, prepared and sanded skirting boards.
It is recommended to apply coats by brush.
If you wish to spray coats, you must test a small section of moulding, prior to coating all the product.
Typically apply another primer coat on top of pre-primed skirting boards and two top coats, depending on the paint coverage and finish you wish to achieve.
It is not recommended that further coats be watered down or thinned out as this can cause problems with paint integrity (peeling, cracking, bubbling) and not provide a smooth, even coverage.
You should always refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations and assess the level of coverage after each coat has fully dried.
“Yellowing” is the term most commonly used to describe the discoloration effect that occurs naturally on ageing, when an alkyd (oil-based) enamel paint is used indoors. It is most noticeable in situations where the natural lighting is poor, for example skirting boards, sliding cavity doors, inside door-jambs, behind furniture or inside cupboards.
The “yellowing” phenomenon is an industry wide technology characteristic which is prevalent in all paint manufacturers of oil-based enamel paints and is not restricted to any one individual product or brand.
How do you fix it? Unfortunately the “yellowing” effect is irreversible and the colour can often be irregular or patchy in appearance.
To minimise the “yellowing” effect during the drying process, all conventional water-based prep-coats and topcoats should be applied first and allowed to cure for up to two weeks (longer if cold) prior to the commencement of the enamel work (or vice-versa).
Good ventilation, with the aid of fans, during application and during the drying period for all water-based paints will allow ammonia vapours (if present) to escape more quickly.
As an alternative to conventional water-based paints, low VOC water-based paints that usually do not contain ammonia, can be employed.
The only effective way to overcome the “yellowing” problem, once it has occurred, is to allow the enamel paint to harden and lightly sand to remove the gloss prior to repainting with a non-yellowing water-based coating system, over the alkyd enamel.
In order to prevent this problem, it is recommended to avoid applying white or light coloured enamel or alkyd paints in presence of water based paints at the same time, because it can adversely and permanently affect the colour of the alkyd enamel.
Allow as much natural light as possible into the painting area both during and after application on enamels. Rooms that remain closed-up until the occupant moves in are very susceptible to early “yellowing”, due to the lack of ventilation and lack of daylight.
When a completely non-yellowing enamel finish is required, a premium quality water-based enamel paint should be employed.
Unlike oil-based enamels, most water-based Acrylic latex paints, will not “yellow” over time.
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